The SSENSE Experience and Menswear Fashion: A Conversation with Charles of SSENSE
Charles talks about his experience working at SSENSE, Paris Fashion Week, and his recommendations in building a good wardrobe.
Montreal is a stylish city; there’s no denying it. Spend an afternoon in the Mile End or the Plateau and you’d find that each person you come across have their own distinct sense of style and expresses them accordingly. This week, I’m excited to share my conversation with Montreal-native Charles. A fashion connoisseur and enthusiast, he works at the brick-and-mortar SSENSE store on the Store Experience team, while also maintaining two Instagram accounts that documents his fashion over the past few years (@gems.mtl & @feenzfashion).
During the span our correspondence beginning early October, we discussed all things fashion—his insights on contemporary brands, clothing essentials, dressing tips, as well as his advice on building a good closet. It was an informative talk and there were a lot of good takeaways I hope to share with you today. With that being said and no more time to waste, I welcome to the newsletter, Charles.
*Parts of this conversation may have been edited or rearranged for clarity and coherence.
CS: Hi Charles! Let’s start by telling me a little bit about yourself!
Charles: First off, hi! I’m Charles and I’m a fashion enthusiast from Montréal, Canada. I am currently finishing my Bachelor’s in Fashion Management and I have been working for one of the biggest fashion retailers in the world for the past 3 years, SSENSE. That experience has truly opened my eyes to the fashion world and made me more knowledgeable about up and coming designers. On another note, sports are something that’s really important to me. They make me focus on something else and I truly enjoy cheering for my favorite teams. My first language is also French haha, so if I ever make mistakes, my bad.
CS: Would you say that having a formal education in Fashion Management helped you become more knowledgeable about fashion or see it in a different way?
C: Honestly that’s a really good question, since a ton of people are actually asking me the same question. With my experience, my fashion degree did help me get a job at SSENSE. I applied 5 years ago with no fashion degree and the same experience, but never got called for an interview. I tried again after my first semester and it worked out perfectly. If we talk about knowledge, I do not think my fashion degree has brought me anything that I use on a daily basis at work. My knowledge has been built with time, great connections, and new experiences such as Paris Fashion Week.
Two years ago, I also started Item Of The Day in my [Instagram] stories. It’s basically a quiz where you need to guess the designer. That actually helped me a ton because every brand has their own design language and after a certain time you can see patterns in any brand.
CS: That's so interesting to hear. Speaking of Paris Fashion Week, I'm really curious to hear about your whole experience there. What was it like seeing clothes and designers up close?
C: It was my first ever fashion week, so I was super stressed about planning and meeting everyone I was talking to for the past 3-4 years. The whole experience has truly been amazing, to be honest! I had a few runway shows booked like Kartik Research, Études Studio, Jeanne Friot, to name a few. I also had planned a few meetings in showrooms to connect with designers. Once you’re there, all your plans goes in the garbage and you follow what’s going on that night. I prefer showrooms than runway shows since I actually can feel the fabrics and see details up close.
CS: I think many people outside of Montreal know SSENSE as a high-end online e-commerce company, but there's actually a physical store here in Montreal. For those who've never visited the store, could you share what the in-store SSENSE experience is like?
C: Alright so yes, the majority of people that know SSENSE only know the online e-commerce part of the brand. SSENSE is a Montreal-based company; that’s why they decide to have the only flagship store in the world in the heart of the Old Port of Montreal. The store has been designed by famous architect David Chipperfield, only using concrete and steel throughout the whole five floors of the building. I’m part of the Store Experience team for the flagship store, who style mannequins and decide on what we sell on each floor. Every three weeks, we change the selection in-store to showcase new styles that recently dropped online.
The SSENSE store is really unique; two out of the five floors are used by stylists to host appointment with clients who can come and try on their wishlist. Since we can’t bring every item from the website in-store, SSENSE offers the possibility for clients to pick and choose items that they want to see and try on.
We also often have collaborations in-store with other brands. This year, we have worked with Dries Van Noten, Axel Arigato, and Ferrari to name a few. Those events are so cool for the city and does bring every fashion enthusiast together.
CS: What clothing item have you been noticing a rise in this fall at SSENSE? What has been popular among the people?
C: The weather in Montreal is slowly getting really cold, so I am seeing more and more coats in appointments recently. Mackage, Moncler, Stone Island, and C.P. Company are for sure the ones I see the most. At the same time, a lot more boots has been asked in-store. ROA, Diemme and Our Legacy are doing amazing boots, but they sell out pretty quickly, normally.
CS: How would you describe your own fashion sense?
C: That question is really a head scratcher for me, since I do feel like your own fashion sense changes as you grow, discover new brands, and find ideas you like. I have recently realized that it’s been 10 years since I really started to get into fashion. I do feel like that journey made me realize a lot of stuff and it’s the reason why I feel comfortable wearing what I like today, despite criticism.
What actually made me start paying attention to fashion was reselling Supreme. I was there every Thursday at 11am, looking for the best pieces I could get my hands on to resell. That made me understand the community and what was to buy and resell. So I would still say that today, streetwear does influence my style in a way since it was what I started with. But in the last few years, I have been way more into actual designers. Having the chance to see over 500 products daily has made me love the details in every garments.
I love button ups—they’re simple, yet they elevate your outfits. I usually love to style them with products that are really not business-core, like baggy pants or hats. Being from Montreal, thrifts in the city are on every corner, so I do try to find some steals for cheap since buying designer can rapidly be costly. At work, there’s no uniform or dress code, so people wear what they want. I would say though, a lot of employees are rocking the all-black look daily. I love to play with colors and shapes, so I rarely go all black.
CS: It's pretty cool too that you have an Instagram account documenting years of fit checks. It's almost like a time capsule to see how your style evolved over the years. Based on what I've seen there, would you say it's fair of me to assume you're more into the oversized silhouette? or would you say it's a mix?
C: Haha yes, I am definitely more into oversized silhouette! I have tried every piece of clothing you can think of and that made me realize what suited my body type best. I have started documenting my fit around the same time I started working at SSENSE, so 3 years-ish. At first it was really for me, to know what I wore that day so I wouldn’t pull the same fit the next week. I started getting asked about IDs on my items, so I kept on posting.
CS: What are some of your favorite brands and any in particular you're currently digging as of late?
C: I mean, I do feel like saying that one of my top brands being Bode now seems like a casual take, but I have been an Emily Bode (@bodepersonal) advocate for years now. The fabrics, the cuts and the details get me every time. I own a few pieces and they never disappoint. I love brands that you can tell by not just seeing the logo, but by the cuts and details. Maison Margiela is of course one of my favorite, if not number 1. The hype around Our Legacy is fun; I like a lot of their pieces, but sometimes quality isn’t there. I would also suggest a similar brand, Auralee, who does amazing basics with crazy fabrics. Finally, StoryMFG can’t seem to stop amazing me. They are so open about how everything is made and it’s so interesting to see and understand.
CS: I totally get your love for Bode, I really like their crochet and senior cords stuff. It feels so handmade, vintage, and full of heritage in the best way possible, especially the details where they embroider cursive lettering. It actually reminds me of this other brand, Samuel Zelig. And speaking of Margiela, any thoughts on the Tabi loafers?
C: They are doing an amazing job at giving vintage look to new garments. I actually own Samuel Zelig items, quality is insaneeeee! I would recommend anyone to check them out, they usually do a sale every few months where their prices are really good! With the rise of Tabis, my take might sound fashion NPC, but I genuinely love any Tabis haha. I do think that we see them way too much today and they’re rarely well styled, but when they are, it’s actually super sick. I must say tho, I don’t own any haha.
CS: I thought it's funny you mentioned Auralee, because it's the first time I've heard of the brand, but now it's all over my feed and newsletter about their collab with Kith.
C: You will make me cry… that Kith collab is going to kill me. I get the move, since they are gonna reach a new customer segment, but Kith?? Really? They have been growing in popularity pretty recently. I feel like I see their products on every influencer.
CS: What's your favorite scent, whether that's a daily wear or ones for different occasions?
C: Ohhh it’s that time where I am supposed to not gatekeep anything. I do feel like I switch my fragrances a lot. Last year or so, I was really into Gypsy Water by Byredo which is a brand I love for the scents. I then switched to Karst by Aesop, but I don’t feel like it stays on for a long period. I have recently came across the new Dries Van Noten cologne Cannabis Patchouli, and it has me thinking about buying it!
CS: I've heard great things about Byredo, I need to try it out! I wear Margiela's By The Fireplace and have the same problem with it not lasting too long given that it's EDT. Le Labo and Diptyque have been popping up all over the place, are you a fan of their scents?
C: Byredo has definitely been a top seller at the store, same goes for Le Labo. We don’t currently have Diptyque fragrances in-store, so I can’t really say much, but the fact is, I love Cyprès and Lys . For Le Labo, Santal 33 is for sure a classic, but I see a rise in Thé Matcha 26 and Thé Noir 29, which are two excellent choices.
CS: Also, because Montreal pretty much has all four seasons, do you have a fragrance rotation from season to season or do you just stick to one throughout the year?
C: I would say I have a winter fragrance and a summer one, but here and there I like to try new ones and switch it up constantly.
CS: Myself—and I'm pretty sure many others—don't have a big budget to work with. If you could build a wardrobe with only say, five staple pieces, what would they be?
C: I am also part of those that don’t have a big budget, don’t get it twisted. Building a big wardrobe takes time, but if I started back with nothing and needed five pieces:
Any button up, you can easily dress up or down a button up. It depends on the vibe you want to go for, they are so versatile. They are basically my only tops.
You also need a good pair of baggy jeans. If there’s one thing I would invest in, it’s jeans. I love mine being different and edgy without being too much out there. With my time at the thrift, I rarely come across a great pair.
For shoes, I feel it differs for everyone and what you do on the daily. I would have to say that for me, my GATs [German Army Trainers] are definitely the shoe that I wear the most and that works with every fit. For some people they’re boots, so try and get something that you know works best with most of your wardrobe. Salomon, Saucony, or Asics are all valid options that you can use daily.
I am a big fan of headwear; I just feel like they elevate most fits. Most of my caps or beanies aren’t worth a lot. I usually take neutral colors so I can mix and match with a ton of fits. Relatedly, any bag does elevate your fit. The options are unlimited; mine’s crossbody, but I do still pull my tote bag on here and there.
Finally, I would say a thrifted jacket for layering. The amount of cool jackets you can find at the thrift is insane. They are usually already worn a ton by the previous owner, so you can see scuff and fading, which I love. You can find light and heavy jackets for your need at any thrift honestly.
CS: I like how a big part of your wardrobe consists of thrift finds. So I have to ask—and it's acceptable to gatekeep, given that we're on sensitive territory here—but which Montreal thrifts are your favorites?
C: I spent hours in thrift shops 5-6 years ago and I was forcing myself to buy a piece of clothing every time; either to resell or to style the week of my purchase. I have stopped, lack of space at my condo… To be honest, in Montréal, there’s a lot of curated thrifts, but I have rarely bought in any of them, mainly cause the pricing is often crazy and the lack of good stuff is also something worrying. I mainly find all my stuff at either the bins, Value Village and Renaissances. It is so time consuming, but it’s really the way to find good steals.
CS: Are there any people in particular who are your style inspo, or where do you go to find inspiration for your outfits?
C: I would say that I do appreciate the style of a lot of Montréal-based fashion influencers, but none of them are really into what I’m into. I am very versatile in my daily fits; One day I could have Bode pieces, the next CDG and finish my week with some small independent brands. I find my inspo by watching runways mainly and I have a few accounts where I do like to keep an eye on what they are wearing.
CS: I liked what you said about criticism earlier. For many people, it's intimidating to experiment with fashion. Do you have any advice?
C: I do get it, I was really trying early on to be the guy that likes fashion at school, but it actually takes time to get into the community and understand the market. You have to be able to place yourself out there and continue doing what you like. For me it felt right the second I started my degree in fashion cause it gave me legitimacy. At the end of the day, you don’t really have to be anybody to wear what you want. People make it a big deal to dress loud, but some people just dress that way.
CS: I really like Uniqlo; quality's great, prices are somewhat reasonable, and they have good basics. Any thoughts about the brand?
C: Uniqlo are always doing good stuff, I do love a lot of their pieces. I mainly buy Uniqlo collabs like the previous one with Marni. If it’s not a collab, I like to check Uniqlo U, where they invite a designer to create piece under the brand, Christophe Lemaire did some pieces few years back for them.
CS: I agree! I also like their collaboration with JW Anderson. Their button ups are my favorites!
C: Absolutely! The collab with JW was really good, which is also a brand gaining a lot of hype recently. Since JW Anderson has been giving the keys of Loewe, he keeps on creating pieces that are trending.
CS: Lastly—and I ask this to every guest I bring on—If you could give one message to the world, what would it be? Whether it be fashion-related or not.
C: Well first off, I would like to thank you for inviting me. It was actually super fun haha. Message to the world would need to be stronger, but I would say to keep focusing on your goals throughout tougher times. If you really want something, the only way for you to achieve it is to put yourself out there and try. Don’t let nobody tell you what’s best for you, you are the one carving your path!
A special thanks to Charles for taking the time to have this amazing conversation with me. I really enjoyed this talk on fashion and learned quite a bit about the industry. Find more of Charles on his Instagram accounts, @feenzfashion (his main) & @gems.mtl (fashion-specific).
And thank you for reading this issue of The Conversation Series. For any inquiries, please contact info.intotheindoors@gmail.com.
into the indoors, 2024.